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TEXT BOOK 



....OF... 



THE GREAT 

MODERN SYSTEM 



COR DESIGNING AND 
r CUTTING LADIES' 

: GARMENTS. 



AS TAUGHT BY 



A. D. RUDE & SON 



AT... 



New York Cutting School 
NEW YORK CITY. 



Cleveland Cutting School 
CLEVELAND, OHIO. 






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60640 




OCT 13 1900 

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NEW YORK, US'. V. 




CLEVELAND, O. 



II - 1^ 




HE DEMAND for Ladies' Tailor-made Garments is 
constantly on the increase and the time will soon 
come, in fact it is now here in many trades where as 
many women as men leave their measure for a suit 
of clothes. 

The one thing needful to make ladies' tailoring a success is 
a proper system of cutting which will produce ladies' garments 
that have the three cardinal virtues, namely "tit," "grace" and 
"beauty" and these are produced by our " Great Modern System " 
which we here present in book form. 

The system here presented is easily learned thoroughly practi- 
cal and cutters using it can produce a coat, waist or skirt for a woman 
with the same ease that they can cut a coat, vest or trousers for a man. 
To the hundreds of cutters who use our system for cutting 
Men's garments this System will prove an open book " in very truth." 
To those who have not used our system for Cutting Men's 
Garments there will be a positive pleasure in adopting this System 
and putting it into practical use 

With full faith in the future of Ladies' Tailoring as the means 
of largely increasing the merchant tailoring trade, and a belief that 
the System contained in this book will be a large means to that end, 
we aie, 

Yours fraternally, 

A. D. RUDE & SON. 



THE ENTIRE CONTENTS 

OF THIS VOLUMN 

IS PROTECTED BY COPYRIGHT. 



GENERAL REMARKS. 




AY particular attention to the name by which each line is 
designated and just how far each line extends. 

All divisions on square are measured from joint of square, 
except J, which is measured from extreme end of long arm. 

The word DRAW is used to designate all straight lines, and 
th^ word DRAFT for curved ones. 

To obtain good results imitate curves on draft as closely as 
possible. 

Whenever the word DOWN is used in connection with the 
divisions it means the Depth of Scye, and whenever the word 
ACROSS, the Bust Measure. 

All garments are drafted for stitched edge. When binding is 
used deduct % in. from edge of garment. 

Collars are drafted for felled edge: when turned-in seam is 
used add %. inch. 

For better comparison collars are shown together on separate 
pages. 

In places where amounts can be varied to suit style of garment 
desired, we would advise to use amount marked on pattern until draft 
is thoroughly understood. 

You will find it a great help to pay particular attention to 
the brief remarks above. 



s> MEASURE, s 



Jacket Waist or Coat Measure. 

First place tape under right arm holding both 
ends above shoulder very tight, then mark on back 
along and inside of tape, then under left arm 
and mark in same manner, then measure across back 
from mark to mark, take one half of this amount for 
width of back and add l / 2 in. for seams. 

Place square under right arm and mark on 
back on top of square, then under left arm and mark 
in same manner. Place square under arm so it is just 
easy, not too tight nor too loose, and see that the 
square is perfectly perpendicular. 

Place square across back even with these two 
marks and mark centre of back, then find exact length 
of natural waist and mark in most hollow part of back, 
then mark on vest collar where you wish seam of coat 
collar to come. 

1. SLEEVE. 

Measure length of sleeve by placing square 
under arm and measure down the arm as far as cus- 
tomer may desire. 

2. DEPTH OF SCYE. 

Measure from mark on waist collar, down back 
to mark even with bottom of armscye, and always 
call this measure one inch more, and so write 
it in measure book. 

3. NATURAL V/AIST. 

Measure down back from mark on collar to 
mark at natural waist. 

4. ARTIFICIAL WAIST. 

Measure down from mark on collar to artificial 
waist. Measure down from mark on collar to mark 
at largest part of hip. 

5. LENGTH OF COAT. 

Measure down back from mark on collar to 
length of coat. 



6. BUST MEASURE. 

Take Bust easy measure standing in rear of 
customer. 

7. WAIST MEASURE. 

Measure around so as tape will fit hollow part 
of back and very tight. 

8. HIP MEASURE. 

Measure around largest part of hip easy. 
All measures are taken over waist. 

TO GET INCLINE. 

Place straight edge against customer's back 
with end of straight edge just at hip line, hold- 
ing it firmly with left hand, then take square in 
right hand and measure from straight edge to waist 
collar, if customer is a regular form she will measure 
two inches, if stooping more, and if erect less. 

TO GET SUPPRESSION OF WAIST. 

Measure from straight edge to most hollow 
part of back. 

Vest Measure. 

Measure length of vest from centre of back on 
vest collar to length desired in front, and holding tape 
at length of vest at front, measure back, up to the 
opening. These measures are applied on vest the 
same as they are taken. 

For all other vest measures use waist measures. 

Skirt Measure. 

Measure around waist very tight, around hip 

rather easy- 
Take length of skirt from seam of band to 

floor front sides and back and add one inch to 

measure. 

For rainy day skirt measure length as desired. 



Application of Depth of Scye, 



OOQOOOOOOO 



Place end of tape at A 36 on square and measure down the 
amount of the depth of scye, on scale of E. 

• 'A inches depth of scye gives 24 on scale of E. 



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Therefore draft all lengths by depth of scye measure and all 
widths by bust measure. 

Always apply this measure before drafting coat or waist for 
any size. 



FLY FRONT JACKET. 

PLATE I. 




FLY FRONT JACKET. 



^^r 



Measure* 



<'.'_. Width of Back. 

18 Length of Sleeve. 

8}4 Depth of Scye. 

15 To Natural Waist. 

20 To Seat and Full Length. 



36 Bust Measure. 

24 Waist Measure. 

42 Hip Measure. 

2 Incline. 

2 Suppression. 



FOUNDATION LINES 

Draw construction line I — 2, measure down on 
baseline 1 — 2 to natural waist ( 1 •"> in.) and mark in 
amount of suppression 2 in. to •">. 

Draw line from 1 through "> and square across 
line 1 — 3 at right angles to line 1 — 5. 

Place square on draft so as stars on square will 
meet those on draft and mark down A32 — B32 — D32 
— E32 by depth of scye measure and F3fi — G36 — H."><> 
13(5 by bust measure. 

E is the Bust Line. 

Place end of tape at A and measure down 15 in. 
to Waist Line, and 20 in. to Hip Line, which is 
also the length of jacket in this case 

From B mark up one in. and down one in. 
square all lines across (except B use one in. down and 
one in. up instead) at right angles to line 1 — 5, and 
square all lines down at right angles to line 1 — .">, 
noting how far each line extends. 

BACK. 

Measure across width of back (<>.l in.) from line 
one in. above B and square down to 4. 

Make width of back at waist from (•"> to 7) 2 in. 
and square down to 31. 

The line from C to •"> is used as a guide line only. 

Mark in 2 in. at bottom of jacket same as sup- 
pression. 

The plait is f in. width. 

Draft curved line from A to F; from F to 6; 
6 to 4; 4 through 7 and 13 to 31. 

SHOULDER. 

Mark down F .")2 from G and | in. down and 
: + in. forward from I to 10 (for 2 in. incline) draw line 
from 10 to F. Measure back from 1*) width of shoul- 
der from F to 6 and draft curve to 11. 

ARM SCYE AND SIDEBODY. 
Mark 2 J 4 in. in from E to L on Bust Line, 

(for 2 in. incline) and the same amount from 4 to I 2 



and from 13 to 14, from 12 to 16 is 4/ in. strong 
from 17 to 18 is one in. 

Draft curve from I I through 18 to Bust line 
and from 16 to Bust Line. 

Measure forward i- of Bust Measure (IS in. ) 
from L on Bust line to M and square down to N on 
hip line. 

From M measure back J> of Bust Measure to 
wherever it ma}' meet. Natural Waist Line marked T. 

Measure forward from T, 2 in. the same amount 
as width of back from 5 to 7, then square down to X 
at right angles with Waist Line. X to 21 is 1 in. 
Draf: curve from 12 through 14 through 19 to 21. 
1 9 to 8 is 2i in., 14 to 9 is 3 in. Draw Hue from arm 
scye through 9 through 8 to 22. From 8 to 24 is 
£- in. Draw line from arm scye through 23 through 
24 to 25 From 24 to 26 is 2£ in. From 23 to 27 is 
2.1 in. Draw line from 27 through 26 to 28. From 
26 to 29 is 1 ' + in. Draw line from 27 through 29 to 30. 

Measure from N to 30, 30 to 28, 28 to 25, 22 to 
21, 31 to 32. You will find this gives 1 ."> in. and as .1 of 
hip measure is 21 add 1 1 in. from 30 to 33. 1 1 in. from 
28 to 34. 1 A in. from 25 to 36 and 1 .1 in. from 22 
to 35. This gives a total of 6 in. which makes pattern 
.1 of Hip Measure. Draft curve from 29 to 33, from 
26 to 34, 24 to 36 and 8 to 35. 

FORE PART. 

From M add 2i in. for Make = up Line, and 
square down to Bottom Line. 

Mark down J 32 from Bottom Line on Make. 

up Line and draw line from % i 11 - below 33 to J. 

Add A in. at Waist Line in front of Make=up 
Line, and draw line through 37 and 38 from top to 
bottom of draft. 

From 10 measure down F 32 and square for- 
ward to Make-up Line. 

Draft Curve from 10 through 39. 

Add 1 % in. from 39 to 40 and from 41 to 42 
for button stand and draw line full leugth of Draft. 



DOUBLE BREASTED JACKET. 

PLATE II. 




11 



FLY FRONT JACKET. 



Measure. 



Gy 2 Width of Back. 

18 Length of Sleeve. 

8% Depth of Scye. 

15 To Natural Waist. 

20 To Seat and Full Length. 



36 Bust Measure. 

24 Waist Measure. 

42 Hip Measure. 

2 Incline. 

2 Suppression. 



FOUNDATION LINES 

Draw construction line 1 — 2, measure down on 
baseline 1 — 2 to natural waist (15 in.) and mark in 
amount of suppression 2 in. to 5. 

Draw line from 1 through 5 and square across 
line 1 — 3 at right angles to line 1 — 5. 

Place square on draft so as stars on square will 
me t rliose on draft and mark down A32 — B32 — D32 
— E32 by depth of scye measure and F36 — G36 — H36 
136 by bust measure. 

E is the Bust Line. 

Place end of tape at A and measure down 15 in. 
to Waist Line, and 20 in. to Hip Line, which is 
also the length of jacket in this case. 

From B mark up one in. and down one in. 
square all lines across (except B use one in. down and 
one in. up instead) at right angles to line 1 — 5, and 
square all lines down at right angles to line 1 — ."», 
noting how far each line extends. 

BACK. 

Measure across width of back (<!A in.) from line 
one in. above B and square down to 4. 



Make width of back at waist from (5 to 7 



■1 in. 



and square down to .">1 

The line from C to 5 is used as a guide line only. 

Mark in 2 in. at bottom of jacket same as sup- 
pression. 

The plait is f in. width. 

Draft curved line from A to F; from F to 6; 
6 to 4; 4 through 7 and 13 to 31. 

SHOULDER. 

Mark down F 32 from G and f in. down and 
%'m. forward from I to 10 (for 2 in. incline) draw line 
from 10 to F. Measure back from 10 width of shoul- 
der from F to 6 and draft curve to 11. 

ARM SCYE AND SIDEBODY. 

Mark '2% in. in from E to L on Bust Line, 
(for 2 in. incline) and the same amount from 4 to 12 
and from 13 to 14, from 12 to 16 is \ in. strong 
from 17 to 18 is one in. 

Draft curve from II through 18 to Bust line 
and from I 6 to Bust Line. 



Measure forward \ of Bust Measure (18 in.) 
from L on Bust line to M and square down to N on 
hip line. 

From M measure back \ of Bust Measure to 
wherever it may meet Natural Wai.^t Line marked T. 

Measure forward from T, 2 in. the same amount 
as width of back from 5 to 7, then square down to X 
at right angles with Waist Line. X to 21 is 1 in. 
Draft curve from 12 through 14 through 19 to 21. 
19 to 8 is 2A in., 14 to 9 is 3 in. Draw line from arm 
scye through 9 through 8 to 22. From 8 to 24 is 
i in. Draw line from arm scye through 23 through 
24 to 25. From 24 to 26 is 2 A in. From 23 to 27 is 
2i in. Draw line from 27 through 26 to 28. From 
26 to 29 is 1 % in. Draw line from 27 through 29 to 30. 

Measure from N to 30, 30 to 28, 28 to 25, 22 to 
21,31 to 32. You will find this gives 15 in. and as . I of 
hip measure is 21 add 1 J, in. from 30 to 33. 1 \ in. from 
28 to 34. 1 A in. from 25 to 36 and 1A in. from 22 
to 35. This gives a total of <i in. which makes pattern 
5 of Hip Measure. Draft curve from 29 to 33, from 
26 to 34, 24 to 36 and 8 to 35. 

FORE PART. 

From M add 2A in. for Make-up Line, and 
square down to Bottom Line. 

Mark down J 32 from Bottom Line on Make. 

up Line and draw line from % in. below 33 to J. 

Add A in. at Waist Line in front of Make=up 
Line, and draw line through 37 and 38 from top to 
bottom of draft. 

From 10 measure down F 32 and square for- 
ward to Make-up Line. 

Draw line from 1 1 
Line from O to P is H 
A in. from 44 to 43 is \ 
44 and 43. 

Draw line from P through 44 to 45; from 44 
to 45 is 3A in. from 37 to 40 is 3 in. Draw line from 
40 through 42 to bottom of jacket. 

Draft curve from 45 through 40 to bottom as 
desired. 



through 
in. from 



18 to Bust 

39 to 44 is 



in., Draft V between 



TIGHT FITTING JACKET, 

PLATE III. 




13 



TIGHT FITTING JACKET. 



First draft jacket same as plate 1, except 
measure forward from T. Two inches more than 
one half of waist measure to O. From O add two 
inches for make up to P, you will find this leaves 
3^ inches from P to R. Take out one large bias 
dart of 3 inches which with one half inch for 
seams of dart makes 3A inches, in other words 
take dart of whatever size may be required to 
take up amount from P to R allowing w inch for 
seam of dart. 



Draw line from 11 through 18 to Bust 



Line for N. W is one half of distance from N 



to E, and top of dart is 2A inches from W. 

From 39 to 40 is one inch, and from 41 



to 42 is one inch, draw line from 40 to 42 and 



draft curve from 42 to Bottom of Coat as may 



be desired. 




GLOVE FITTING WAIST. 

PLATE IV, 





GLOVE FITTING WAIST. 



■^m^ 



15 



Measure, 



6i Width of Back. 
IS Length of Sleeve. 

U Depth of Seye. 
L5 To Natural Waist. 
KU To Length of Waist. 

CONSTRUCTION LINES. 

Measure down on base line 1 — 2 to natural 
waist (15 in.) and mark in amount of suppression 2 
in. to 5. 

Draw line from 1 through 5 and square across 
line 1 — 3 at right angles to line 1 — 5. 

Place square on draft with stars to meet and 
mark down A32 — B32 — D:'>2 — E32 — by depth of scye 
measure and across F36 — G36 — H3(> — 136 by bust 
measure. 

From B mark up 1 inch and down f inch. 
Measure down from A, 15 in. to natural waist and 
16£ in. to length of waist, square all lines across 
(except B use 1 in. up and f in. down instead) at 
right angles to line 1 — 5, and square all lines down 
at right, angles to line 1 — 3, noting how far each 
line extends. 

BACK. 

Measure across <>A in. to C and square down 
to 4. 

Make width of back at waist from (5 to 7) If 
in., width of back at bottom is If in. 

The line from C to 5 is vised as a guide 
line only. 

Draft curved line from A to F; from F to 6; 
6 to 4; 4 through 13 and 7 to bottom line. 

SHOULDER. 

Mark down F 32 from G and f in. down and 
£ in. forward from I to 10 (for 2 in. incline) draw line 
from 10 to F. Measure back from 10 same as width 
of shoulder from F to 6 and draft curve to 11. 

ARM SCYE AND SIDEBODY. 

Mark 2| in. from E to L (for 2 in. incline) 
and the same amount from 4 to 12 and from 13 to 
14, from 12 to 16 is £ in. (strong) from 17 to 
18 is one in. 

Draft curve from 11 through 18 to Bust line 
and from 16 to Bust Line. 

Measure forward I of Bust Measure (18 in.) 
from L on Bust line to M. 



'■'><> Bust Measure. 

24 Waist Measure. 

2 Incline. 

2 Suppression. 

From M measure back A of Bust Measure to 
wherever it may meet Natural Waist Line marked T. 
Measure forward from T, If in. the same 
amount as width of back from 5 to 7, then draft 
curve from 12 through 14 and 19, and 20 to 21, 
from 20 to 21 is £ in. 

From 19 to 8 is 2 A in., from 14 to 9 is 3 in. 
Draw line from arm scye through 9 and 8 to bottom 
line. From 8 to 24 is f in. Draw line from arm 
scye through 23 and 24 to bottom line. From 24 
to 26 is 2i in. From 23 to 27 is 2.V in. Draw line 
from 27 through 26 to bottom line. From 26 to 29 
is f in. Draw line from 27 through 29 to bottom 
line. Add spring from 8, 24, 26 and 29 to bottom 
line. 

FORE PART. 
Measure forward from M 2A in. for Make- 
up Line, and square up and down at right angles 
to Bust Line. 

Mark down F 32 from 10 and square forward 
to Make=up Line. 

Draft curve from 10 to 40. 
Drop 1 in. from K and draw Waist Line 
from T to R. 

Measure forward from T, 1 \ in. more than A 
of waist measure to N. From N add 2 in. for Make= 
up to P. Take out amount from P to R (4 in. in 
this case), with two darts. Make small dart 1 in. 
and large dart 2 in., which allowing 1 in. for seams 
of darts makes 4 in. 

Square down from 18 for 22. O is A of dis- 
tance from 22 to 25. Top of dart is 2 A in. from O. 
When it is desired to button waist to neck, 
hold tape at x (half way between 14 and 9) and sweep 
from 25 to 28. 

Mark down F from bottom line on make-up 
line. Draw line from 30 to F and draft curve from 
waist line on Make=up Line through R out A in. 
to bottom of waist. ' 

For lapel waist or jacket waist, measure down 
4 to 5 in. from 40 and draw lapel line from this 
point to 10. 



WAIST FOR STOUT LADY. 



PLATE V. 




17 



WAIST FOR STOUT LADY. 



-^8^ 



Measure* 



18 
9 A 
15i 
17 



Width of Back. 
Length of Sleeve. 
Depth of Scye. 
To Natural Waist. 
To Length of Waist. 



CONSTRUCTION LINES. 
Measure down on base line 1 — 2 to natural 
waist (1.">A in.) and mark in amount of suppression 
1 A in. to 5. 

Draw line from 1 through 5 and square across 
line 1 — 3 at right angles to line 1 — 5. 

Place square on draft with stars to meet and 
mark down A36 — Bo(i — D36 — E36 — by depth of scye 
measure and across P42 — G42 — H42 — 142 by bust 
measure. 

From B mark up 1 inch and down 1 inch. 
Measure down from A, L5A in. to natural waist and 
1 7 in. to length of waist, square all lines across 
(except B use 1 in. up and 1 in. down instead) at 
right angles to line 1 — 5, and square all lines down 
at right angles to line 1 — 3, noting how far each 
line extends. 

BACK. 

Measure across 7 A in. to C and square down 
to 4. 

Make width of back at waist from (."> to 7) 2 
in., width of back at bottom is 2 in. 

The line from C to ."> is used as a euide 
line only. 

Draft curved line from A to F; from F* to 6; 
6 to 4; 4 through 13 and 7 to bottom line. 

SHOULDER. 

Mark down F 36 from G and £ in. down and 
4, iu. forward from I to 10 (for 2 in. incline) draw line 
from 10 to F. Measure back from 10 same as width 
of shoulder from F to 6 and draft curve to 11. 



ARM SCYE AND SIDEBODY. 



Mark 



in. from E to L (for 2 in. incline) 



and the same amount from 4 to 12 and from 13 to 



16 



is 



in. 



(strong) 



from 17 to 



14, from 12 to 

18 is one in. 

Draft curve from 11 through 18 to Bust line 
and from 16 to Bust Line. 

Measure forward A of Bust Measure (21 in.) 
from L on Bust line to M. 



42 Bust Measure. 

'"><> Waist Measure. 

2 Incline. 

1 s Suppression. 

From M measure back A of Bust Measure to 
wherever it may meet Natural Waist Line marked T. 

Measure forward from T, 2 in the same 
amount as width of back from 5 to 7, then draft 
curve from 12 through 14 and 19, and 20 to 21, 
from 20 to 21 is f in. 

From 19 to 8 is 2 A in., from 14 to 9 is 3| in. 
Draw line from arm scye through 9 and 8 to bottom 
line. From 8 to 24 is A in. Draw line from arm 
scye through 23 and 24 to bottom line. From 24 
to 26 is 2 A in. From 23 to 27 is 2 A in. Draw line 
from 27 through 26 to bottom line. From 26 to 29 
is A in. Draw line from 27 through 29 to bottom 
line. From 29 to 30 is 2 1 , in., from 27 to 28 
is 2 in. Draw line from 28 through 30 to bottom 
line. From 30 to 31 is J > in. Draw line from 
28 through 31 to bottom line. Add spring from 
8, 24, 26, 29, 30 and 31 to bottom line. 

FORE PART. 

Measure forward from M 2 A in. for Make- 
up Line, and square up and down at right angles 
to Bust Line. 

Mark down F 36 from 10 and square forward 
to Make=up Line. 

Draft curve from 10 to 32. 

Drop 1 in. from R and draw Waist Line 
from T. 

Measure forward from T, 1A in. more than % 
of waist measure to N. From N add 2 in. for Make= 
up to P. From P add .'i 1 . in. to R and take out 
this amount with two darts, (small dart f in. and 
large dart If in., and 1 in. for seams of darts). 

When it is desired to button waist to neck, 
hold tape at x (half way between 14 and 9) and sweep 
from 33 to 34. 

Mark down F from bottom line on make-up 
line. Draw line from Side Seam to F and draft 
curve from Waist Line through R out A in. to 
bottom of waist. 

For waists where edges just meet take off A 
in. entire length of front. 



HALF FITTING BOX COAT. 



PLATE VL 




19 



HALF FITTING BOX COAT. 



•^ 



Measure. 



u 

15 
20 
28 



Width of Back. 
Depth of Scye. 
To Natural Waist. 
To Hip Line. 
Long. 



FOUNDATION LINES 

Draw construction line 1 — 2, 'and using this 
line as a base line square across line 1 — 3. 

Place square on draft so as stars on square will 
meet those on draft and mark down A32 — Bo'-' — Do2 
— B3- by depth of scye measure and Foil — G-">'i — H H ( J 
136 by bust measure. 

From B mark up one in. 

Place end of tape at A and measure down 15 in. 
to Waist Line, 20 in. to Hip Line, and 28 in. to 
Bottom Line or whatever length may be desired. 

Square all lines across at right angles to line 
1 — 2 (except B square this line 1 in. above B) and 
down at right angles to line I — 3, noting how far 
each line extends. 

BACK. 

Measure across width of back (<>i in.) on line 
one in. above B to C and square down to 4. 

Mark 1A in. back from 4 to 5 and square down 
5 to Hip Line. 

From C to 6 is A in., from 7 to 8 is 1 A in. 
Draw a line from F to 6. 

Draft curve A to F; from F to 6; 6 to 4; 
4 through 9 through 8 to Bottom Line. 



SHOULDER. 

Mark down F 32 from G, and f in. down and 
I in. forward from I to 10. (For 2 in. incline) 
Measure back from I width of shoulder from F to <> 
and draft curve to 1 1 . 



ARM SCYE. 

Mark 2£ in. forward from E to L on Bust 
Line (for 2 in. incline) from 4 to 12 is i in., from 
13 to 14 is 1 in,, from 1 2 to 15 is 3- in. 

Draft curve from 1 1 through 18 to Bust Line 
and from 15 to Bust Line. 



36 Bust Measure. 

24 Waist Measure. 

42 Hip Measure. 

2 Incline. 

SIDE SEAM. 

From L measure forward A of Bust Meas- 
ure (IS in.) on Bust Line to M, and square 
down to N on Hip Line. 

Deduct amount from 20 to 8 (width of back) 
from h of Hip Measure and apply result from N 
back to K on Hip Line. 

From 9 to 21 is 2 in. 

Draft curve from 12 through 14throughh21 
and K to Bottom Line. 

From 22 to 23 is 1A in., this is cut out to 
give spring over hip. 

FRONT. 

From M add 2A in. for Make-up and square 
to Bottom Line. From 24 to 25 is f in. Draw 
line through 26 through 25 entire length of draft 
for Hake=up Line. 

From 10 measure down F 32 and square 
forward to flake=up Line, and draft curve from 
10 to 27. From 27 to 28 is J in., and from 28 
to 29 is A in. from 30 to 31 is 1 in., draw line 
from 31 through j in. above 28 to 32. From 28 
to 32 is 3A in., cut out V between 28 and 29. 

Mark down J from bottom line on flake= 
up Line and draw line from 35 through J. 

Add •"> in. in front of Hake=up Line at 
Bust Line and Hip Line and draw line entire 
length of coat. 

Draft curve from 32 through 32 and 34 to 
bottom of coat. 

The top button is placed <> in. down from 
27. Space for three buttons <! in. apart and ") in. 
back from edge. 

Sleeve notch is always placed 14 ' n - 
down from 18. 

These coats are usually left open at the 
side from x. 



FULL BOX COAT, 



PLATE VII. 




21 



FULL BOX COAT. 



Measure. 



<JA Width of Back. 

Si Depth of Scye. 

J 5 To Natural Waist. 

20 To Hip Line. 

38 Long. 

FOUNDATION LINES 

Draw construction line 1 — 2, -and using this 
line as a base line square across line 1 — 3. 

Place square on draft so as stars on square will 
meet those on draft and mark down A32 — B32 — D82 
— E32 by depth of scye measure and F36 — G36 — Ho(i 
I.'Wi by bust measure. 

From B mark up one in. 
Place end of tape at A and measure down 15 in 
to Waist Line, 20 in. to Hip Line, and 38 in. to 

Bottom Line or whatever length may be desired. 
Square all lines across at right angles to line 

1 — 2 (except B square this line 1 in. above B) and 
down at right angles to line 1 — 3, noting how far 
each line extends. 

BACK. 

Measure across width of back (lii in.) on line 
one in. above B to C and square down to 4. 

Mark li in. back from 4 to 5 and square down 
5 to Hip Line. 

From C to I! is I in., from 7 to 8 is U in. 
Draw a line from F to <>. 

Draft curve A to F; from F to 6; 6 to 4; 
4 through 9 through 8 to Bottom Line. 

SHOULDER. 



Mark down F ?>2 from G, and f- in. down and 
i in. forward from I to 10. (For 2 in. incline) 
Measure back from I width of shoulder from F to (i 
and draft curve to 1 1 . 

ARM SCYE. 

Mark 2| in. forward from E to L on Bust 
Line (for 2 in. incline) from 4 to 12 is 2£ in., draw 
line from 12 through K to Bottom Line. From 
12 to 15 is j in. 

Draft curve from 1 1 through 18 to Bust Line 
and from 15 to Bust Line. 



36 Bust Measure. 

24 Waist Measure. 

42 Hip Measure. 

2 Incline. 

SIDE SEAM. 

From L measure forward i of Bust Meas- 
ure (IS in.) on Bust Line to M, and square 
down to N on Hip Line. 

Deduct amount from 20 to 8 (width of back) 
from i of Hip Measure and apply result from N 
back to K on Hip Line. 

Draft curve from 12 through K to Bottom 
Line. 

FRONT. 

From M add 2 A in. for Make-up and square 
to Bottom Line. From 24 to 25 is f in. Draw 
line through 26 through 25 entire length of draft 
for riake=up Line. 

From 10 measure down F 32 and square 
forward to Hake=up Line, and draft curve from 
10 to 27. From 27 to 28 is f in., and from 28 
to 29 is h in. from 30 to 31 is 1 in., draw line 
from 31 through i in. above 28 cut out V between 
28 and 29. 

Mark down J from bottom line on Hake= 
up Line and draw line from 35 through J. 

Add :'> in. in front of Hake=up Line at 
Bust Line and Hip Line and draw line entire 
length of coat. 

The top button is placed 7 in. down from 
27. Space for three buttons 'i in. apart and .'> in. 
back from edge. 

Sleeve notch is always placed % in. 
down from 18. 

These coats are usually left open at the 
side from x. 

AUTOMOBILE COAT. 

Draft Automobile Coat on page 22 same as 
Full Box Coat, plate vn, except to draw line from 
3 through 28 and from 15 through 28 to 32. 
From 28 to 32 is 7 to 1\ in. Draft lapel as 
desired. 



AUTOMOBILE COAT, 



PLATE VIIL 




2a 




SLEEVE. 



PLATE IX. 

Measure size of arm seye of coat, waist, 
or jacket pattern and draft sleeve '2 in. less 
where plain sleeve is desired or draft sleeve same 
size of arm seye if extra fulness is desired in 
sleeve head. 

First fold paper evenly on construction 
line 1—2. 

Measure back \ of sleeve and A of sleeve 
from x on line 1 — 3 to points 3 — 4. 

Square down lines 3 and 4 at right angles 
to line 1 — 3. 

Measure down J (depth of seye) from 1 
and add 1 in. (point 6). 

Place fore part on sleeve so as notch of 
fore part will meet notch on sleeve (point 6) 
and trace the arm seye of fore part from 6 to 
7 on sleeve pattern. 

Point 7 is 1A in. from construction line. 
Point 8 is 1A in. from point 2. 

Measure down the length of sleeve from 
7 on line 7 — 8 and add 1 in. 

Always measure lady at wrist and elbow. 
Measure back from point 2, half amount desired 
at wrist and measure back from point T half 
of amount desired at elbow to L. 

From line 1-3 square down from 4. Measure 
back A in. to star. Hold at star and sweep from 
6 through 3 for head of sleeve. 

Measure in '1 in. from point 3 to 12 and 
draft curve to 7. 

From 12 to 13 is 1 in. and from 13 to 
14 is { in. from 3 to 5 is 1 in. 

Draft curve from 5 one quarter in. outside 
of L to 10 and draft curve from 14 one quarter 
in. inside of L to 10. 

Hollow sleeve \\ in. on each side of T 
and draft curved lines from 7 to 8. 

Cuff is in addition to length of sleeve and 
may be drafted to suit. 



RAGLAN. 

PLATE X. 




25 



RAGLAN. 



PLATE XL 




First draft Full Box Coat same as plate, vn., 
except 24 to 28 inches long, omit peak of lapel 
and add 2 in. from 19 to 20 and 2 in. from 21 
to 22 draw line up and down full length of 
draft through 20 and 22 and square line from 4 
to Hip Line instead of from 5 to Hip Line. 

BACK. 

1 1 is | in. from C, 10 is 3 in. from C, 5 is 
& in. from 13, R is i- in. from 5. 

Draft curve from F through 11 and 10, and 
4 to R, and from R through line 13 — 7 at waist 
line and through 8 to bottom of draft. 

FORE PART. 

Draw line from f in. below I to 18 and 
draft curve. 

RAGLAN SLEEVE. 

PLATE XI. 

First draft regular sleeve. 

From 4 to 9 is i in. Square up from 9 
and measure up from 1 1 same amount as width 
of shoulder from F to 6. 

Draw line from 15 to 3 and from 15 to 6 
curve from 15 to 3 and from 15 to 6. 




INCLINES. 

PLATE XII. 

NO INCLINE. 




2% UU 



53 o 



UJ 



ONE INCH INCLINE. 




TWO INCH INCLINE. 




N< •* ^1 



NO INCLINE. 



Measure forward 2| in. from E for point L, and 2| in. 
from 4 to 12 and from 13 to 14. 

Mark back from I £ in. on line I — 3 and drop \ in. 
for point 10. 






ONE I NCH INC LINE. 



Measure forward from E "-'i in. for point L and 2 A in. 
from 4 to 12 and from 13 to 14. 

Mark down i in. from I for point 10. 



viy\ /b 



T WO INCH IN CLINE. 

Measure forward 2\ in. from E for point L and same 
amount from 4 to 12 and from 13 to 14. 

Mark down f in. and forward ^ in. for point 10. 



© 



INCLINES. 



PLATE XIII. 



THREE INCH INCLINE. 




a: q ** 



FOUR INCH INCLINE. 




a: sa ^1 



GRADED INCLINES. 




THREE INCH INCLINE 



^^ 



Measure forward 2 in. from E for point L and same 
amount from 4 to 12 and from 13 to 14. 

Mark down 1 in. from I and forward A in. for point 10. 



^^T 



FOUR INCH INCLI NE. 

Measure forward If in. from E for point L and the 
same amount from 4 to 12 and irom 13 to 14. 

Mark down 1| in. from I and forward f in. for point 10. 



♦ *<? 



GRADED INCLINE. 



f?^ 



Showing all inclines in one grade. 




DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK COAT. 



PLATE XIV. 




31 



DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK COAT. 

Measure* 



GJ Width of Back. 

18 Length of Sleeve. 

U Depth of Scye. 

Lo To Natural Waist. 

16 A To Fashionable Waist. 

36 To Length of Coat. 

FOUNDATION LINES 

Measure down on base line 1 — 2 to Natural 
Waist (15 in ) and mark in amount of suppression 
2 in. to 5. 

Draw line from 1 through 5 and square 
across line 1 — 3 at right angles to line 1 — 5. 

Place square on draft with stars to meet and 
mark down A32— B32— D32— E32 by Depth of Scye 
Measure and across F36 — G36 — H36 — 136 by Bust 
Measure. 

From B mark up 1 in. and dovn f inch. 

Place end of tape at A and measure down L5 in. 
to Natural Waist Line, 16^ in. to Fashionable 
Waist Line, and 36 for full length of coat. 

Square all lines across (except B use 1 in. up 
and f in. down instead) at right angles to line 1 — 5 
and square all lines down at right angles to line 
1 — 3, noting how far each line extends. 

BACK. 

Measure across <ii in. to C and square down 
to 4, make width of back at waist (from 5 to 7) 
If in. and square down to bottom of draft at right 
angles to Waist Line. 

The line from C to 5 is used as a guide 
line only. C to 6 is A in. Draw line from F to I!, 
curve line from A to F; F to 6; 6 to 4; and from 
4 through 13 to 7. 

Mark in 2 in. from 36 (same as suppression) 
and draw line from Hi. I to 2, plait is 14, in. in width. 

SHOULDER. 

Mark down F 32 from G, and f in. down and 
I in. forward from I to 10 (for 2 in. incline) draw 
line from 10 to F. Measure back from 10 same 
amount as width of shoulder from F to 6 and draft 
curve to 11. 

ARM SCYE AND SIDE BODY. 

Mark 2| in. from E to L (for 2 in. incline) 
and the same amount from 4 to 12 and from 13 
to 14. From 12 to 16 is 4, in., from 17 to 18 
is 1 in. 

Draft curve from 1 1 through 18 to Bust Line 
and from 16 to Bust Line. 

Measure forward i. of Bust Measure (IS 
in.) from L on Bust Line to M, from M measure 
back 4 of Bust Measure to wherever it may meet 
Natural Waist Line at T. 

Measure forward from T If in. the same 
amount as width of back from 5 to 7, then draft 
curve from 12 through 14 and 19 to 20. 



• '><; Bust Measure. 

24 Waist Measure. 

42 Hip Measure. 

2 Incline. 

2 Suppression. 

From 19 to 21 is 2.1 in., from 14 to 9 is 3 
in., draw line from Arm Scye through 9 and 21 
to Bottom Line, from 21 to 24 is f in., draw 
line from Arm Scye through 23 and 24 to Bottom 
Line. From 24 to 26 is 2 1 , in., from 23 to 27 
is 'iy 2 in. Draw line from 27 through 26 to 
Bottom Line. From 26 to 29 is f in., draw line 
from 27 through 29 to 30. 

Add spring from 21, 24, 26 and 29. 

FORE PART. 

Measure forward from M 2 in. for i*lake=up 
and square down to Fashionable Waist Line at 
right angles to Bust Line. 

Hold tape at X (A- of distance between 14 
and 9) and sweep from 25 to 28. Mark down 
F 32 from 10 and square forward through sweep- 
line. 

Draft curve from 10 through 28. 

Measure forward from T 1 A in. more than A 
of waist measure to N. From N add 2 in. for 
flake=up to P, take out amount from P to R 
(3i in. in this case) with two darts make small dart 
f in. and large dart If in., which allowing 1 in. for 
seams of darts makes 3 A in. O is half of distance 
from 22 to 25. Top of large dart is 2A in. from O. 

Mark down F from Fashionable Waist Line 
on Hake=up Line and draw line from 30 to F — 31 
is f up, from F draft curved line through 31 to 32. 

Width of lapel at bottom is 2 in, If in. at 
Waist, •">! in. at Bust and '.\ in. at Peak. 

Draft lapel from peak through bust waist 
and fashionable waist to bottom of draft. 

SKIRT. 

Draw line from 20 to 32, from 20 to 33 is 
2 in., square down from 33 at right angles to line 
20 — 32 to bottom of skirt 34. 

Measure down 12 in. from 33 on line 33 — 34 
for spring, and measure back 4 in. from X when 
Hip measures 6 in. more than Bust and add or 
deduct 1, in. from this amount for each in the Hip 
is larger or smaller than Bust. 

Draft curve from 33 through 35 to bottom 
of skirt. 

Length from 33 to 37 is the same as from 
8 to 38. Square line from 34 to front of skirt 
at right angles to line 33 — 34. From 39 to 40 
is 2 in., draft curve from 33 through 40 to 32. 

From 41 to 42 is 2 in., draft curve from 
37 through 42 to front of skirt. 



LADIES' CUTAWAY COAT 



PLATE XV. 




38 



LADIES' CUTAWAY COAT. 



Measure. 



G{ Width of Back. 

18 Length of Sleeve. 

Si Depth of Scye. 

1 ■"' To Natural Waist. 

Hi'. To Fashionable Waist. 

30 To Length of Coat. 

FOUNDATION LINES 
Measure clown on base line 1 — 2 to Natural 
Waist (15 in.) and mark in amount of suppression 
2 in. to 5. 

Draw line from 1 through 5 and square 
across line 1—3 at right angles to line 1—5? 

Place square on draft with stars to meet and 
mark down A32— B32— D32— E32 by Depth of Scye 
Measure and across F36— G36— H36— 136 by Bust 
Measure. J 

From B mark up 1 in. and down f inch 
Place end of tape at A and measure down 1 5 in 
to Natural Waist Line, nil i„. to Fashionable 

Waist Line, and 30 for full length of coat. 

Square all lines across (except B use 1 in up 
and | m. dowu instead) at right angles to line 1—5 
and square all lines down at right angles to line 
1 — 3, noting how far each line extends. 

BACK. 

Measure across 6* in. to C and square down 
to 4. make width of back at waist (from 5 to 7) 
If in. and square down to bottom of draft at right 
angles to Waist Line. 

The line from C to 5 is used as a guide 
line only. C to 6 is h in. Draw line from F to 6 
curve line from A to F; F to 6; 6 to 4; and from 
4 through 13 to 7. 

Mark in 1 in. from 2 and draw line from 16A 
to 1, plait is U in. in width. 

SHOULDER. 

_ Mark down F 32 from G, and f in. down and 
i m forward from I to 10 (for 2 in. incline) draw 
line from 10 to F. Measure back from 10 same 
amount as width of shoulder from F to 6 and draft 
curve to 11. 

ARM SCYE AND SIDE BODY. 

Mark 24. in. from E to L (for 2 in. incline) 
and the same amount from 4 to 12 and from 13 
to 14. From 12 to 16 is i in., from 17 to 18 
is 1 in. 

Draft curve from 1 1 through 18 to Bust Line 
and from 16 to Bust Line. 

Measure forward A of Bust Measure (IS 
in.) from L on Bust Line to M, from M measure 
back A of Bust Measure to wherever it may meet 
Natural Waist Line at T 



36 

24 

42 

2 

2 



Bust Measure. 
Waist Measure. 
Hip Measure. 
Incline. 
Suppression. 



Measure forward from T If i„. the same 
amount as width of back from 5 to 7 then draft 
curve from 12 through 14 and 19 to 20 

From 19 to 21 is 2* in., from 14 to 9 is 3 
m. draw line from Arm Scye through 9 and 21 
to Bottom Line, from 21 to 24 is f in., draw 
line from Arm Scye through 23 and 24 to Bottom 
Line From 24 to 26 is 2y 2 in., from 23 to 27 

d :Y 2 U l. Draw lme from 27 through 26 to 
Bottom Line. From 26 to 29 is f in . * draw line 
from 27 through 29 to 30. 

Add spring from 21, 24, 26 and 29. 

FORE PART. 

Measure forward from M 2 in. for riake=up 
and square down to Fashionable Waist Line at 
right angles to Bust Line. 

Mark down F 32 from 10 and square forward 
to nake=up Line. 

Draft curve from 10 through 28. 

Measure forward from T H in. more than \ 
of waist measure to N. From N add 2 in for 
Hake-up to P. The amount from P to R is 
Si in. in this case. Take out \ of this amount 
with bias dart for half fitting or entire amount with 
two darts for glove fitting. 

Mark down F from Fashionable Waist Line 
on Hake=up Line and draw line from 30 to F 

From 28 to 29 is 1 in. and from R to K is 

1 in., draw line from 29 to K. 

Draft curve from 29 \ in. inside of K and F 
to bottom of draft. 

SKIRT. 

Draw line from 20 to F, from 20 to 33 is 

2 in ., square dowu from 33 at right angles to line 
2U — 32 to bottom of skirt 34. 

Measure down 12 in. from 33 on line 33— 34 
for spring, and measure back 4 in. from x when 
Hip measures 6 in. more than Bust and add or 
deduct | in. from this amount for each in the Hip 
is larger or smaller thau Bust. 

Draft curve from 33 through 35 to bottom 
of skirt. 

Length from 33 to 37 is the same as from 
8 to 38. Square line forward from 34 at right 
angles to line 33—34. From 39 to 40 is 2 in 
draft curve from 33 through 40 to F. 



in 
h 
< 

a. 



> 

X 

P 

< 




35 



JACKET WAIST. 

PLATE XVI. 



Measure 



<;:. Width of Back. 

1 8 Length of Sleeve. 

U Depth of Scye. 

Hi J, Artificial Waist. 

Draft same as Double Breasted Frock, plate 
XIV., except to omit skirt and make length 1 \ in. 
longer than Fashionable Waist length. 



18 Full Length. 

36 Bust Measure. 

24 Waist Measure. 

2 Incline. 

2 Suppression. 



ETON JACKET. 



PLATE XVII. 

Measure. 



lii Width of Back. 
8£ Depth of Scye. 

15 To Natural Waist. 

16 Full Length. 

Draft same as Vest, plate xyiii, page 3f>, 
except do not hollow back at 15 and mark \ in. 
from 7 to x. 

From 12 to M is one-fourth of Bust Measure 
and 2 in. 

Mark down F — 32 from 10 and add 1 in. 
and square across to T. 

Draft curve from 10 to T and sweep from 
M to T. 



36 Bust Measure. 
24 Waist Measure. 

2 Incline. 

From P add 2 in. to K and take out dart of 
U in. 7 is \\ in. below Waist Line, draft curve 
from M through K to 7 and from 6 to 7. 

When sidebody is desired \\ in. dart is taken 
out at 4 and curved lines drafted from 8 to bot- 
tom of draft. 

When glove fitting Eton is desired it should 
be drafted same as Glove Fitting Waist, plate IV., 
page 14, with lapel and front to suit style desired. 




X 

w 
H 

-) 
0, 



S 

PQ 

W 
-J 
PQ 
5 

o 

Q 



Ol, 




37 



SINGLE BREASTED VEST. 



PLATE XVIII. 

Measure 



23 Length. 

10 Opening. 

-Si Depth of Scye. 

1 •") To Natural Waist. 

FOUNDATION LINES. 

Draw construction line 1 — 2 and square 
across line 1 — 3. 

Place square on draft with stars to match 
and mark down A32— B32— D32— E32— by Depth 
of Scye Measure and across F36 — G-'Wi — H36 — 136 
by Bust Measure. 

Measure down 1 •"> in. from A for Waist Line 
and HiA in. for length of back. Mark up 1 in. 
from B and square all lines across at right angles 
to line I — 2 (except B square 1 in. above instead) 
and down at right angles to line 1 — 3, noting how 
far each line extends. 

BACK. 

Measure across <>A in. on line 1 in. above 
B to C and square down to 4, 6 is A in. from 
C. Draw line from F to 6. 

Measure forward from E one-fourth of Bust 
Heasure net (point 5), square down 5 at right 
angles to Bust Line. Through 7 to 8 from 7 to 
x is A in. and from 15 to x is 1 in., draw line from 
5 through X to bottom line and add spring from 
x to bottom line. 

Draft curve from A through E and x to 
bottom line and from A to F, F to 6, 6 through 
4 to 5. 



HI. I Back Length. 

•"><; Bust Measure. 

24 Waist Measure. 

2 Incline. 

FORE PART. 

From G measure down F 32, 10 is f in. 
down and \ in. forward from I. 

Measure back from I \ in. less than width 
of back from F to 6 and draft curve to 11. 13 
is A in. forward from 10. 

Measure forward from 5 2] in. (for 2 in. in- 
cline) and square clown to bottom of draft. 

From 14 to 15 is \{ in., draw line from 12 
through 15 to bottom of draft and add spring from 15. 

Measure forward from 12 one quarter of Bust 
Measure and add 2 A in. (point M) and square M 
down to bottom of draft. 

O is 1 in. from N, draft curve from K to O. 

Measure distance from A to F, place this 
amount at 10, measure down length of Vest and 
add 1 in. (point O) and back up to the opening. 

Hold tape at L and sweep from M to T. 

Draft curve from 1 I through 18 to Bust Line. 

Measure from x to x on back, place this 
amount at 15 and measure across half of waist to N, 
from N to P is 2 in. 

From P to K is 4 A in. Take out two darts 
one of 1 in. and one of 2A in., this with 1 in. for 
seams of dart makes 4 A in. 

Draw line from 30 to N and from O to 3 1 , 
draft curve as desired from dart to 31. 



DOUBLE BREASTED VEST. 



PLATE XIX. 

Draft same as Single Breasted Vest, plate 
XVIII, except to make 12 to M 2 in. instead of 
2A in. Make lapel from M to 5 .">A in. and If 
in, from O to 6. Mark up 1 in. to 20 for seam 
of lapel. 



NEWMARKET, 



PLATE XX. 





39 



NEWMARKET. 



Measure. 



6 A Width of Back. 
18 Length of Sleeve. 

81 Depth of Scye. 
15 To Natural Waist. 
HI A To Artificial Waist. 

FOUNDATION LINES. 

Draw construction line 1 — 2. Measure clown 
on base line 1 — 2 to Natural Waist (15 in.) and 
mark in amount of suppression 2 in. to •">. 

Draw line from 1 through 5 and square 
across line 1 — 3 at right angles to line I — 5. 

Place square on draft with stars to meet and 
mark down A32— B32— D32— E32 by Depth of Scye 
Measure and F 36— G 36— H 36—1 36 by Bust 
Measure. 

Place end of tape at A and measure down 15 in. 
to Natural Waist Line, 16 A in. to Fashionable 
Waist Line, 20 in. to Hip Line and 56 in. to 
Bottom Line. From B mark up 1 in. and down 



inch. 



Square all lines across (except B use 1 in. up 



56 Full Length of Back. 
•").") Full Length of Front 

(from 39 to 46). 
36 Bust Measure. 
24 Waist Measure. 
42 Hip Measure. 

Measure forward A of Bust Measure (18 
in.) from L on Bust Line to M and square down 
to N on Hip Line. 

From M measure back h of Bust Measure to 
wherever it may meet Natural Waist Line marked T. 

Measure forward from T If in. the same 
amount as width of back from 5 to 7, then square 
down to x at right angles to Waist Line, x to 
21 is 1 in., 54 to 55 is 1A in. 

Draft curve from 12 through 14, 19 and 21 
to 55. 

From 19 to 8 is 2 J, in., from 14 to 9 is 3 
in., draw line from Arm Scye through 9 and 8 
to 22, from 8 to 24 is f in., draw line from Arm 
Scye through 23 and 24 to 25. 

Measure from N to 25, 22 to 21 and from 



and | in. down instead) at right angles to line 1 — 5 31 to 32, you will find this gives 17 



m. 



and 



as 



and down at right angles to line 1 — 3, noting how 
far each line extends. 

BACK. 

Measure across width of back (<>A in.) on line 
1 in. above B to C and square down to 4. 6 to 
C is \ in. Make width of back at waist (from 5 
to 7 1 If in. and square down through 31 to bottom 
of draft at right angles to Waist Line. 

The line from C to 5 is used as a guide 
line onlv. 54 is 1 in. from 56, draw line from 
Artificial Waist (16£ in.) to 54. Plait is 1 J. in. 
wide which allows for turning in f in. for facing. 

Draw line from F to 6, draft curved line from 
A to F; F to 6; 6 to 4; and 4 to 7. 

SHOULDER. 

Mark down F -">2 from G, and £ in. down and 
j in. forward from I to 10 (for 2 in. incline) draw 
line from 10 to F. Measure back from 10 width 
of shoulder from F to 6 and draft curve to 11. 

ARM SCYE AND SIDEBODY. 

Mark 2J in. from F to L on Bust Line 
(for 2 in. incline) and the same amount from 4 to 
12 and 13 to 14. From 12 to 16 is \ in. strong 
from 17 to 18 is 1 in. 

Draft curve from 1 1 through 18 to Bust Line 
and from 16 to Bust Line. 



half of Hip Measure is 21, add li in. from 25 to 
36 and 2| in. from 22 to 35. 

Draft curve from 8 through 35 to bottom 
of draft and from 24 through 22 to bottom of draft. 



From 23 to 27 



is 



-)i 



in. 



from 24 to 26 



is 3 in. Draft curve from 27 through 26 to 30. 



Hip Line from 26 to 29 is \\ 

27 through 29 to 30. 



draft 



curve 



from 



FORE PART. 

From M add 2A in. for Hake=up Line and 
square down to Hip Line. 

Hold tape at star (half way between 14 and 
9) and sweep from 37 to 39. 

From 10 measure down F 32 and square for- 
ward to Hake=up Line. From 39 to 40 is A in. 
Draw line from 11 through 18 to O, from O to P 
is 2 1 , in., draw line from P through 40 to 41 for 
peak of lapel, from 40 to 41 is :'>.V in. From 42 
to 43 is 1 in. Draft curve from K at Waist Line 
through 43 to Bottom of Draft. 

From 43 to 44 and from 37 to 45 is 3 in. 
draft curve from 41 through 45 and 44 to Bottom 
of Draft. 

Measure front length on lady from front collar 
button to bottom of skirt and apply amount you get 
from 39 through 37, K and 43 to Bottom of 
Draft, 46 and draft curve from 55 to 46. 



FULL LENGTH BOX COAT. 



PLATE XXJ. 




41 



^ at HOOD, dt <£ 



+i-.sV *-.:>•:..* 



PLATE XXII. 

Measure 

36 Bust Measure. 

2o Measure over Head. 

This measure is taken from collar seam at 
shoulder point over head to shoulder point. 

Draw construction line I — 2 and square across 
1 — 3, from I measure forward F 36, square down F 
at right angles to line 1 — 3. 

From 1 measure down C 36 and mark up \% 
in. to point 4, from 4 measure down half the amount 
over head, square line C and 2. From x, measure 
across C 36 to Y, from 2 measure across D 36, from 
D mark down F 36. From 1 to 7 is 1 in., from 7 
to 8 is f in., from 5 to 6 is f in. Draft curve from 
8 through line 1—3 and Y to F, from 8 through 6 
to 4 and from 2 to F. 

COLLARS. 

Draft brake line from edge of coat at first button 
through point 10, add width of top of back from A to 
F and Jin. (amount from 10 to I), make stand from 
1 to 2 one and half in. and leaf from 1 to 3 two to 
three inches. 

Draft curve from 2 meeting gorge line at brake 
to 4, point 4 is % in. below gorge line, from 4 to 5 
is according to style. Draft line from 3 to 5. 

*J*tJt"t* 

AUTOMOBILE COLLAR. 

Draw construction line 1 — 2, from 2 to 3 is 1^ 
in., from 3 to 4 is 1 in., from 3 to 5 is % in. more than 
neck gorge (plate rv), from 28 to 10 and F to A. From 
5 to 6 is 1 ', in., from 5 to 1 2 is My, in. Draft curve 
from 12 to 4 and from 6 to 4, draw line from 4 
through 2 to 9, square line from 5 through 6 to 7, 
from 7 to 8 is 2 in., draft line from 8 through 7 to 
9, 11 is 4.1 in. from 7, draw line from 11 to 12 and 
add H in. on each side of 1 1, draft curve from 2 to 14 
as desired. 



^ * 



FULL LENGTH BOX COAT. 

Draft same as plate vn, page 20, except 56 in. 
back length and .")."> in. front length (to bottom of dress) 
Mark 36 in. F from R and draft curve from Bust Line 
i in. inside of waist line through 20 to F, mark E 36 
from R and draft curve from 4, one quarter inch inside 
of 9 through 7 to E. From 13 to 14 is :i in. square 
line to hip line from 14 and take out dart of 1^ in. at 
Waist Line. 






w 




Waist Band 2 tin. 



tin. 



& dt SHIRT WAIST. a s 



•w*SOS**» 



For Silk, Wool, or Washable Goods, 



PLATE XXIV. 



43 



Measure 



18 Length of Sleeve. 
8^ Depth of Seve. 
1 < J A Full Length. 

Draw line 1 — 2 and using this line as a base 
square across line 1 — 3. 

Place square on draft with stars to meet and 
mark down A32— B32— D32— E32 by Depth of Scye 
neasure and across F36 — Go<i — H36 — 136 by Bust 
Measure. 

From B mark up 1 in. 

Place end of tape at A and measure down full 
length (Ki'j) for Bottom Line. 

Square all lines across at right angles to line 
1 — 2 (except B square this line 1 in. above B) and 
down at right angles to line 1 — 3. 

BACK. 

Measure across width of back (G*4 in to C) 
'ine 1 in. above B and square down to 4 Bust 



on 
Line. 

From C to 6 is ^in. draw line form F to 6. 

From 4 to R is 1 %va.. square from R to bottom 
of draft. From 20 to 21 is 2 r 2 in. 

Draw line from arm scye through R and 21 to 
bottom of draft and curve line from arm size through 
R and 21 to bottom of draft. 

From R to L is 2j^in. (for '1 in. incline) square 
L to bottom of draft, from 7 to 8 is 1 T 4 in. Draw line 
from L through 8 to bottom of draft. Draft curve from 
L through 8 to bottom of draft. 

Draft curve from A to F, F to 6, 6 through L 
to Bust Line. 

Raise 34 in. at point L (so that fore part 
will be proper length for back) and draft from 
this point to Bust Line. 



36 Bust Measure. 
24 Waist Measure. 
2 Incline. 

FRONT. 

From L measure across T + th of Bust neasure 

aud add 3 I / 2 'in. point M. From M square to 
bottom of draft at right angles to Bust Line. 

Mark down F 36 from G and i + down and ' + 
in. forward from I to 10. Draw line from 10 to F and 
measure back from 10, width of shoulder from F to 6. 

From 16 to 18 is 1 in. draft curve, from 11 
through 18 to Bust Line. 

Hold tape at R and sweep from M to 9. Mark 
down F 32 from 10 and square forward through sweep 
line. 

Mark down B 32 from N, draw line from 2 
through B and draft curve from 2 through 1 3 and B to 
front of draft. 

From M to 12 and B to 14 is 1 in. for button 
stand, draw line through 12 to 14 and sweep from 12 

Measure from 2 to 21 , place this amount at 8 and 
measure across one half of Waist Measure to O, from 
O to P is 2 in. for make-up, from P to X is 4 in. in this 
case. For lining or foundation take out this amount 
with dart allowing J 2 in. for seams of dart. 

For fulness or plaiting add 2 in. from 12 to 16 
and i' in. from 14 to 17, omit dart altogether, gather 
on to waist band from 1 3 to B and gather in to neck 
band from 9 to 10. 



*H»|*Tt* 



BLOUSE WAIST. 



PLATE XXIII. 



Draft same as Shirt Waist above, except to make 
distance from L to M one-fourth of Bust Measure aud 
4 1 , in. instead of one-fourth of Bust Measure aud 



%l4 in. 



Omit dart altogether and full on to waist baud 
from 13 to 14. 



Waist band is cut size of waist and 1 in. more 
for button stand. Draw line from I 1 through 18 to 
Bust Line for 19 and draw line from 19 through 22 
for lapel. From 22 to 23 is 4 1 , in., take out % in. 
for V from 22 to 24. 



THREE PIECE SKIRT, 



PLATE XXV. 




25 in 



6in. 




45 



THREE PIECE OR CIRCULAR SKIRT. 



■ym^ 



Measure 



'24 Waist Measure. 
41 Hip Measure. 

FOUNDATION LINES. 

Draw construction line 1 — 2 and using this as 
a base, square across line 1 — 3. 

Mark clown C24 (by Waist /Measure) from 1, 
mark across C-'-t from 1, C across 24 again from C, 
B24 from C and C24 from B by Waist Measure. 

Place end of tape at C and measure down 6 
in., 25 in. (all sizes) and 4.'! in. full length. 

Square all lines across at right angles to line 
1 — 2 and down at right angles to line 1 — 3, noting 
how far each line extends. 

From L measure across half of Hip Heasure 
(20 A in.) to M. 

From M to N is 13 in. (all sizes). 

From O mark across C41 to P (by Hip 
Heasure.) 

Draw line from D through P to bottom of draft. 

Draw line from R through X to bottom of 
draft. 

Draft curve from C to K. 

From T to V is f in. Draft curve from K 
through Y to R. 

DARTS. 

From 7 to 8 is •"> in., from 9 to 10 is H in. 
and from V to 11 is 2 in. 



43 Front Length. 

44 Side Length. 

45 Back Length. 

WAIST MEASURE. 

Apply Waist Measure from C to 7, 8 to 9, 
10 to V and II to R, this should give 1 % in. more 
than half of waist measure, provided it measures 
more make darts larger, should it measure less make 
darts smaller. 

Measure Side Length from Y to 44, measure 
Back Length from R, or line N to 45, from 45 
to 46 is -'5 in., for trail make this more or less as 
desired. 

Draft curve from 43 through 44 to 45. 

From R to 4 is 3 in. and from 45 to 47 
is 3 in., this is for Plait, should separate plait be 
placed on top cut out on line from R through N 
to Bottom of Draft. 

For Circular Skirt open goods and place this 
pattern with 43 — 47 lengthwise of goods. 

Mark line on goods from C to 43 and around 
entire pattern. Then turn pattern over so that C 
and 43 will meet and mark around entire pattern 
on opposite side. This makes only one seam in 
skirt, namely from 4 to 47 with plait, or from R 
to 45 without plait. 




FIVE-GORED SKIRT. 



PLATE XXVI. 




ZSitt. 



6 In. 



47 



FIVE GORED SKIRT. 



y^: 



24 Waist Measure. 
41 Hip Measure. 



Measure 



4."> Front Length. 

44 Side Length. 

45 Back Lengili. 



FOUNDATION LINES. 

Draw construction line I — 2 and using this as 
a base, square across line 1 — 3. 

Mark down C24 (by Waist Measure) from 1, 
mark across C24 from 1, C across 24 again from C, 
B24 from C and C24 from B by Waist Measure. 

Place end of tape at C and measure down <; 
in., and 25 in. (all sizes) and 43 in. full length. 

Square all lines across at right angles to line 
1 — 2 and down at right angles to line I — 3, noting 
how far each line extends. 

From L measure across half of Hip fleasure 
(20 A in.) to M. 

From M to N is 13 in. (all sizes). 

From O mark across C41 to P (by Hip 
Heasure.) 

Draw line from D through P to bottom of draft. 

Draw line from R through N to bottom of 
draft. 

Draft curve from C to K. 

From T to V is f in. Draft curve from K 
through V to R. 



DARTS. 

From 7 to 8 is 3 in. and from 9 to 10 is 2 in. 

WAIST MEASURE. 

Apply Waist Measure from C to 7, 8 to 9, 
10 to R, this should give l 1 , in. more than half of 
waist measure, provided it measures more make darts 
larger, should it measure less make darts smaller. 

Draw line from T to 44 (this can be varied 
to suit making back or side gore larger or smaller). 

Measure Side Length from T to 44, measure 
Back Length from R, or line N to 45, from 45 
to 46 is 3 in. for trail, make this more or less as 
desired. 

Add plait from R and 45 of whatever width 
desired or cut through on line R N to 45 and put 
on separate plate. 

Draft curve from 43 through 44 to 45. 

For curved or flounced effect mark in f in. 
on each side of P and N and A in. inside of 48, 
add 1 in. on each side of 44 and 47 and outside 
of 45 and draft curve accordingly. 




SEVEN GORED SKIRT. 



PLATE XXVII. 




25171. 



6irv. 



SEVEN GORED SKIRT. 



49 



Tffi^ 



Measure 



'24 Waist Measure. 
41 Hip Measure. 

FOUNDATION LINES. 

Draw construction line 1 — 2 and using this as 
a base, square across line 1 — 3. 

Mark down C24 (by Waist Measure) from 1, 
mark across C24 from 1, C across '24 again from C, 
Bi'4 from C and C24 from B by Waist Measure. 

Place end of tape at C and measure down 6 
in., and 2."> in. (all sizes) and 43 in. full length. 

Square all lines across at right angles to line 
1 — 2 and down at right angles to line 1 — 3, noting 
how far each line extends. 

From L measure across half of Hip Pleasure 
U'o.l in.) to M. 

From M to N is 1.3 in. (all sizes). 

From O mark across C41 to P (by Hip 
Heasure.) 

Draw line from D through P to bottom of draft. 

Draw line from R through X to bottom of 
draft. 

Draft curve from C to K. 

From T to Y is f in. Draft curve from K 
through V to R. 

DARTS. 

From 7 to 8 is 3 in. and from 9 to 10 is 2 in. 



4."> Front Length. 
44 Side Length. 



45 



Back Length. 



WAIST MEASURE. 

Apply Waist Measure from C to 7, 8 to 9, 
10 to R, this should give \ 1 2 in. more than half of 
waist measure, provided it measures more make darts 
larger, should it measure less make darts smaller. 

Measure Side Length from T to 44, measure 
Back Length from R, or line N to 45, from 45 
to 46 is 3 in. for trail, make this more or less as 
desired. 

Draft curve from 43 through 44 to 45. 

Draw line from K to 47 from half wav between 
9 and 10 through M to 44 and from half way between 
V and 11 through 40 to 41, take out f in. on each 
side of P, W and 40 and inside of 48 add 4 in. on 
each side of 47, 44, 41 and outside of 45 and draft 
curves accordingly. 

SPECIAL NOTICE. 
When skirt pattern is placed on goods 
cut so that a bias edge will seam with a 
straight edge except in centre of back. 





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51 



<£ dt DIVIDED SKIRT. ^ ^ 



PLATE XXVIII. 

Measure 

22 Waist Measure. 
41 Hip Measure. 
33 Length. 



CONSTRUCTION LINES. 

Draw line 1 — 2 and using this as a base 
square across line 1 — 3. 

From 2 to L is one-half of Hip Measure 
\20h in.) and from L to M is 1 in. 

Draw line from 1 through M to bottom of 
draft. 

From 1 to 4 is one-half of Waist Pleasure (12 
in.), from 4 to 5 is 1 in. less than one-fourth of 
Waist Measure (5 in.), from 5 to 6 is one-eighth 
of Waist Measure (3 in.), from to 7 is one-third 
of Waist Pleasure (8 in.) from 7 to 3 is H in., 
from 4 to 8 is one-fourth of Waist Measure ((I in.) 
and the same amount from 5 to 9, from 8 to 10 is 
one-sixth of Waist Measure (4 in.), from 10 to 11 
is 1 in., from 6 to 12 is one-eighth of Waist 
Measure (3 in.) 

Draft curve from 1 through 8 to 1 1 and from 
9 to 12 and from 12 to 7. 

From 13 to 14 is 2 in., from 15 to 16 is li 
in., from 17 to 8 is 1 in. 

Measure Waist from 14 to 1 5, 16 to 17, 8 to 
1 1 and from 9 to 12. This should measure half of 
Waist Pleasure (12 in.) and 2 in. for seams (14 in.) 
should it measure more make darts larger and if it 
should measure less make darts smaller. 



From 1 to 13 is width of fore part this is not 
included in waist measure as it is placed on top of 
skirt, to be buttoned down seam 14 — 28 so as to be 
taken off at will. 

From 12 to 7 is for plaits. 

Square across from 2 through 19 and 20 at 
right angles to lines 1 — 2. 

From 19 to 20 is ' 2 of Hip Measure (2o.l in.) 
from 20 to 21 is •"> in. 

Draw line from 3 through 21 to bottom of draft. 

From 19 to 22 is ' b th of waist measure (3 in.), 
from 23 to 24 is 1 in., from 22 to 25 is B — 24 by 
waist measure on square. 

Draft curve from 1 1 through 25 to 19 and from 
9 through 24 to 19. 

Measure length of skirt on line I — M to 33. 
Measure same amount from 17 to 26 and from 7 to 27. 
Draft curve from 33 through 26 to 27. 

Square all points down at right angles to line 
1 — 3 noting how far each line extends. 

This Skirt is made in three pieces and should 
be cut on line 14— 28 and 17—26, this forms side 
piece. 

Balance of draft from 8 — 26 to 7—27 forms 
a skirt for each leg and fulness of plaits in back 
prevents any appearance of skirt being divided when 
lad\- is standing. 



© 



^ RIDING HABIT SKIRT ^e 



PLATE XXIX. 




53 



RIDING HABIT SKIRT. 



««o**<» 



Measure 

24 Waist Measure. 
41 Hip Measure. 
59 Length. 

FOUNDATION LINES. 
Draw construction line 1 — 2 and using this as 
a base square line 1 — 3. 

From I to 2 is one-fourth of Hip Pleasure ( LOi 
in.) From 1 to 4 is C 41 (Hip Pleasure). 

Square across point 2 at right angles to line 
1 — 2 and square down point 4 at right angles to line 
' — «*. From 5 to 6 is £ in., from 5 to 7 is one-eighth 
of waist measure (3 in.), from 7 to 8 is .1 in. 

From 2 to 9 is one-eighth of Hip Measure (3 
in), square across from point 9. 

From 4 to first line across is one third of waist 
measure (8 in.), square down to point 1 1. Draft curve 
from 8 to 1 1 and from 6 to II. 

From 9 to 12 is one-sixth of waist measure (4 
in.) Draft curve from 6 to 12. 

Line 13 to 14 simply shows where chamois skin 
should be placed. 

From blank line to 15 is one half of Waist 
Measure and 1 in. added (13 in.) 

Draft curve from 8 to 15. 

From 1 1 to 16 is one-sixth of Waist Pleasure 
(4 in.) 



From 16 to 17 is 1£ in . from 15 to 18 is 1 



in. 



from 18 to 19 is one-eighth of waist measure (3 in.) 

Draft curve from 15 to 19 and from 19 to 17. 
From 18 to 20 is one-eighth of Waist Pleasure 
(3 in.), from 20 to 21 is one-fourth of Waist Measure 
<i in., draft curve 21 to 17. 

From 20 to 22 is one-sixth of waist measure 
and I in. added (4 J, in.), from 22 to 23 is one-third of 
Waist Measure and 1 in. more (!) in.), from 22 to 24 
is one-third of waist measure and 1 .\ in. (!).\ in.) from 



24 to 25 is one-third of Waist Pleasure and 1 in. (!) 
in.), from 24 to 26 is one-third of Waist Pleasure 

and 2 in. (K) in.), from 26 to 27 is one-eighth of 



Waist Pleasure and 



in., from 27 to 28 is 1 .', in. 



Draft curve from 21 to 23, 23 to 25 and from 
25 through 26 to 28. 

From 23 to 29 is 3 in., from 30 to 31 is 1 in., 
from 32 to 33 is :; in., from 34 to 26 is ."> in. Apply 
waist measure from 15 to 19, 21 to 23, 29 to 30, 31 
to 32, 33 to 34 and 26 to 28. 

This should measure 2 in. more than full size 
of waist (26 in.), should it measure more make darts 
larger and if it measures less make darts smaller. 

From 28 to 35 is one-half of Hip Pleasure 
(20^ in.), from 35 to 36 is one-half of Hip Measure 
and 1 in. ( 2 1 V in.), square down from 36 at right 
angles to line 35—36. From 36 to 37 is one-half of 
Hip Measure (20.1 in.), from 37 to 38 is one-sixth of 
Waist Measure (4 in.) Draft curve from 28 through 
36 and 38 to Bottom of Draft 39, square across from 35 
to 40 at right angles to line 28—35, from 35 to 40 is 
one third of Waist and 1 in. (!) in.) 

Square line to bottom of draft at right angles to 
line 35—40, hollow 1 .1 in. on each side of T, draft curve 
from 25 through 40 and 41 to 43 and from 25 throuo-h 
42 to 43. 

Square line from 18 to bottom of draft 44, cut 
through on this line. 

Measure length of skirt from 15 to 8, 6 through 
12 to 45 and from 28 through 36 to 39. 

From 24 to 43 is 10 in. less than length. 

Draft curve from 45 through 44 — 43 to 39. 



54 



<j£ %5C <j£ LA r H . «£ v^5 «e£ 
PLATE XXX. 




CAPE. 



<7ftr 



SQUARE. 



<?f^ 



Measure. 

Stand lady in front of mirror, place tape at 
front shoulder (point 10) and measure over shoulder 
and down along arm full length may be desired 
and take usual measures for waist. 

First draft waist pattern same as plate iv, 
page 14, and place pattern on paper so that point 
F on back and point 10 on shoulder and point 6 
on back and point 1 1 on shoulder will meet. 

Draft from 10 to 28 and down, sweep through 

25 and K to bottom of draft. 

Draft from F to A and from A down back 
through 15J4 to bottom of draft. 

From 10 measure down length of Cape on line 
25 — K and hold at 10 and sweep from M to N. 

The above gives full military cape, when you 
want less drapery, place back and shoulder together 
at point 6 and 1 I and '■'> in. apart from F to 10 and 
mark around back from 6 to F, F to A and A 
through 15 to bottom of draft. 

Should you wish still less fulness, cut in front 
of waist 2 in. from 10 back to 2 in. from 6 and open 
frcnt on this line, after front is opened cut the same 
as you opened back (from 10 to F). 

Mark down line 25 — K and around bottom 
same as you did back, this takes out two darts on 
each shoulder and makes a perfect fitting golf cape. 

Add li in. from 28 to 29, 25 to 26 and M 
to P (for button stand). Draft line from 29 through 

26 to P. 




OJ 



en 



Co 



Oi 



to 



PLATE XXXI. 



ty=t 



2 



±±± 



±ii 



±±± 



10 



±±± 



I 12 13 



±±± 



This Square (a duplicate 
of which is furnished with 
this Text Book) is a one-fourth 
reduction of large box wood 
square and will apply to the 
plates in this Text Book in 
the same manner that large 
square is used in making 
large drafts, except to full 
length box coat, newmarket 
and skirts. 



t 



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A D RUDE . NEW YORK 4 CLEVELAND H 8St&j"fcSC 


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WVfUsmts is bbfelsfcbAksteb 1» Is Is Is PS fe te 1$ It ktefc „. 



** <& INDEX, ** s 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



013 973 188 8 






Application of Depth of Scye. 

Automobile Coat 

Blouse Waist 

Collars 

Cape 

Double Breasted Jacket 

Double Breasted Front 

Double Breasted Vest 

Divided Skirt 

Eton Jacket 

Fly Front Jacket 

Full Box Coat 

Full Length Box Coat 

Five Gored Skirt 

General Remarks 

Glove Fitting Waist 

Graded Inclines 

Habit Skirt 

Half Fitting Box Coat 

Hood 

Inclines 0, 1, 2 

Inclines, 3, 4 

Jacket Waist 

Ladies' Cutaway 

Measure 

New Market 

Raglan 

Raglan Sleeve 

Sleeve 

Single Breasted Vest 

Shirt Waist 

Seven Gored Skirt 

Square 

Tight Fitting Jacket 

Three Piece Skirt 

Waist for Stout Lady 



TE 


PAGE 




7 


8 


22-21 


23 


42-43 


22 


41 


29 


54-55 


2 


10-11 


14 


30-31 


l!l 


36-37 


27 


.-)()-.-) 1 


17 


34-35 


1 


8-9 


7 


20-21 


21 


40-41 


26 


46-47 




5 


4 


14-15 


13 


28-29 


2X 


52-53 


6 


18-19 


22 


41 


12 


26-27 


13 


28-29 


16 


34-35 


15 




20 


38-39 


10 


24-25 


11 


25 


!l 


23 


18 


36-37 


24 


42-43 


27 


48-49 


30 


55 


3 


12-13 


35 


44-45 


5 


16-17 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

I II III III n mm i n .... . 



i ii M I 



013 973 188 8 » 




